Here are some impressions of Istanbul, at the end of our stay. They are, naturally, based only on the areas we have visited.
Transportation: We have been on the subway, a tram, underground one-stop subway called the Tunel, an underground one-stop funicular, an old tram going along a major shopping and promenade street, a cable car, and an ordinary bus. These are all charming; where one ride ends another begins, but one must buy another ticket; the terminals are very clean and there is very charming artwork and beautiful tiles on the walls.
The city: It is hard to find a specific address, such as a restaurant or the jazz club, but perseverance plus a close study of google maps helps. It has been rather cold here, especially in the evenings. However, the last day was lovely and we sat outside for lunch.
The bazaars: The Grand Bazaar is indeed very grand. I bought a LARGE scarf made of goat wool that effectively deals with the cold.
The food: lots of lamb, yogurt, pomegranate syrup flavoring, other spices, very interesting mezzes. After the first night we have not had a bad meal. The bread is excellent. Street vendors sell doughnut shaped buns with sesame seeds that are fine. Turkish coffee not so good; tea is fine.
The jazz club: A small venue, a quartet (piano, bass fiddle, sax, drums) the night we were there. Low key, rhythmic, closely coordinated sound.
The hamam: Mary Jo and I both went (separate rooms for women and men). A very large heated stone in the center of the room. Sitting a while, with a towel as loincloth, one sweats more than in, say Singapore, or Landrum in the heat of the summer. Then one lies on the heated stone. A man (in my case), rubs one with a rough cloth, then piles on sudsy soap, rubs again etc., rinses one off with pails of warm or hot water. Then one can sit around and watch others being similarly tortured. One can douse one's self with cooler, or cold, water. Eventually, one leaves and dresses in the private, locked dressing room. Our haman was built in the late 1500s by Sinan, the master Ottoman architect of Istanbul. In contrast with a Swedish sauna there is no "dry heat" room and "moist heat" room, and there is no obligatory cold plunge afterward. Mary Jo's experience was like mine except that she finished with a swim in a very hot pool.
The water: An earlier posting dealt with our Bosphoros cruise. Here I note that in the 1930s, the founder of modern Turkey, Ataturk, swam the Bosphorus, from Europe to Asia, with a group of colleagues. Just like Mao swimming the Yellow River? Maybe our presidents should swim the Potomac, or the Mississippi.
The sights: We visited the Suleymaniye Mosque, built by the afore-mentioned Sinan, and were allowed in during a service. We stayed in the back. Men in front were kneeling, and there was an evocative singing chant; I do not know if it was recorded or live. After a bit, the chanting stopped and the men left, but some people remained praying here or there. Pictures without flash were allowed. Also, went up the Galata tower, built by Genoese in the 1400s. Toured the Topkapi Palace; a large complex of buildings. Jewels and artifacts from the Ottoman era, a large set of rooms for the harem. Went to the Pierre Lotti cafe and cemetery in Eyup, by cable car. There is a fine view of the Golden Horn and many minarets on the horizon. Unfortunately the sky was hazy so the pictures are not good. Then walked down, visited and, somewhat to our annoyance, were shown around the Eyup Mosque complex by an old man who then requested, and received, some money from us. He also did a little Muslim proselytizing.
Transportation: We have been on the subway, a tram, underground one-stop subway called the Tunel, an underground one-stop funicular, an old tram going along a major shopping and promenade street, a cable car, and an ordinary bus. These are all charming; where one ride ends another begins, but one must buy another ticket; the terminals are very clean and there is very charming artwork and beautiful tiles on the walls.
The city: It is hard to find a specific address, such as a restaurant or the jazz club, but perseverance plus a close study of google maps helps. It has been rather cold here, especially in the evenings. However, the last day was lovely and we sat outside for lunch.
The bazaars: The Grand Bazaar is indeed very grand. I bought a LARGE scarf made of goat wool that effectively deals with the cold.
The food: lots of lamb, yogurt, pomegranate syrup flavoring, other spices, very interesting mezzes. After the first night we have not had a bad meal. The bread is excellent. Street vendors sell doughnut shaped buns with sesame seeds that are fine. Turkish coffee not so good; tea is fine.
The jazz club: A small venue, a quartet (piano, bass fiddle, sax, drums) the night we were there. Low key, rhythmic, closely coordinated sound.
The hamam: Mary Jo and I both went (separate rooms for women and men). A very large heated stone in the center of the room. Sitting a while, with a towel as loincloth, one sweats more than in, say Singapore, or Landrum in the heat of the summer. Then one lies on the heated stone. A man (in my case), rubs one with a rough cloth, then piles on sudsy soap, rubs again etc., rinses one off with pails of warm or hot water. Then one can sit around and watch others being similarly tortured. One can douse one's self with cooler, or cold, water. Eventually, one leaves and dresses in the private, locked dressing room. Our haman was built in the late 1500s by Sinan, the master Ottoman architect of Istanbul. In contrast with a Swedish sauna there is no "dry heat" room and "moist heat" room, and there is no obligatory cold plunge afterward. Mary Jo's experience was like mine except that she finished with a swim in a very hot pool.
The water: An earlier posting dealt with our Bosphoros cruise. Here I note that in the 1930s, the founder of modern Turkey, Ataturk, swam the Bosphorus, from Europe to Asia, with a group of colleagues. Just like Mao swimming the Yellow River? Maybe our presidents should swim the Potomac, or the Mississippi.
The sights: We visited the Suleymaniye Mosque, built by the afore-mentioned Sinan, and were allowed in during a service. We stayed in the back. Men in front were kneeling, and there was an evocative singing chant; I do not know if it was recorded or live. After a bit, the chanting stopped and the men left, but some people remained praying here or there. Pictures without flash were allowed. Also, went up the Galata tower, built by Genoese in the 1400s. Toured the Topkapi Palace; a large complex of buildings. Jewels and artifacts from the Ottoman era, a large set of rooms for the harem. Went to the Pierre Lotti cafe and cemetery in Eyup, by cable car. There is a fine view of the Golden Horn and many minarets on the horizon. Unfortunately the sky was hazy so the pictures are not good. Then walked down, visited and, somewhat to our annoyance, were shown around the Eyup Mosque complex by an old man who then requested, and received, some money from us. He also did a little Muslim proselytizing.
No comments:
Post a Comment